Tree and Shrub Planting

Though one of the commonest tasks in planting a garden it is vital to get it right to give plants a good start in a very different environment to their plastic container.

Acers are best know for their colourful Autumnal foliage, but their attractive bark can add colour in Winter and spring also.

There are Three main objectives:

To make sure the plant stays where you put it
To ensure the roots go out into the surrounding soil and
To make sure enough water gets to the plant (but it does not get waterlogged)

The first step whether you are putting in bedding or planting an oak is to soak the container. With small plants this is best done by putting the whole pot in a bucket of water. With larger specimens you will need to water the pot at least 4 times. This provides enough water in the rootball to allow some water to wet the surrounding soil and establish capillary contact with that soil which you will then water. If there is any question of weeds on the surface of the pot then take off the top 1cm (1/2") of compost and put this in the bottom of the hole

While the pot is soaking dig your hole

In good Lymm soil this may be only just larger than the pot but with poor or compacted soils aim at a generous 1-2ft 30-60cm across and deep. When you are digging down if you come across a different coloured soil then you are into the subsoil. Keep this in a separate pile as it's fertility is much poorer than the top soil. You still want to loosen it though so keep digging....

As above, you won't need to do much improving in good soil and just a handful of fertiliser around a tree or large shrub is all that's necessary in my allotment. Remember that any material you add should be well decayed and don't add more than 15% as it carries on breaking down and may cause the plant to subside. In poor ground you are trying to ease the plants roots out from their cosy peaty cocoon. I remember digging up a shrub after 2 years which I'd planted in thick clay (in Clayton..) The roots had gone round and round INSIDE the original peat. Imagine yourself in a warm bath but a cold bathroom and help make the transition!

Once the hole is dug put enough of the soil back to put the plant just slightly higher than the soil level. Higher because you need to lightly firm the soil to avoid subsidence in the coming months. Check after firming with a garden cane from one side of the hole to the other. A few plants like to be deeper eg Clematis and several won't mind too much but plant an apple tree 15cmn too deep and you'll loose the dwarfing characteristics and get a giant tree.

Push a little of the improved or best quality topsoil from around the hole with a little of the fertiliser around the bottom half of the rootball. Then firm with your foot (or hands if you're planting bedding). Put more soil into the gap and firm again to place the plant level with the surface. You should have some soil left over. In dry soils I make this into a low ring about 20cm (8") out from the plant to aid watering. I also will fill this ring with bark about 2im deep just avoiding contact with the stem as this makes a massive difference to the soil drying out.

Now WATER! For a tree use 2 Gallons (10liters) and repeat twice a week. Daily is not better as this encourages the plant to root near the surface.

Even if it rains: Still water twice a week as it's very unusual to get enough moisture for a new shrub or tree.

For a clematis or medium shrub then 4-5litres (1gallon) would be OK and if you're about to go off for a long holiday then drench the surrounding area.

Finally staking for tall shrubs and trees.

Aim to put the stake close to the trunk about 2-3 ft up. You can either put it in diagonally pointing away from the strongest wind direction (all stakes the same way if possible) or just put it vertically down through the roots which can be tricky. Use a special tree tie or make a figure of 8 with a soft expandable material like nylon tights but not plastic string, baler twine and never use wire as these all just cut straight into the bark. Even so you'll need to check every year till the tree is fully established after 2 years or so. With the ultra dwarfing apples on M27 I advise to use a hardwood stake and leave this in for ever a bit like standard roses.

Any questions of comments either come up to the nursery and ask Richard or Imogen in person. Or send and email to Richard.

Have fun!